My First Days in Argentina
We stayed at the Loi Suites Arenales the first two nights. I was given a key similar to a plastic credit card that opens the lock of the door, but then this card must be placed into a device just inside the room that controls the power to the room. If the card is not in place there is no power - no lights, no air-conditioning, no charging electronics - cameras, cellphones, laptops etc.
My room had this private balcony with a nice view up and down the street. The room was spartan but adequate, and my first views of Buenos Aires invited me out for more. Everyone has plants and gardens growing wherever there is some available space. There are trees and parks everywhere.
After settling into the hotel we sought out a place to have some lunch. A few blocks from the hotel we encountered this lovely woman. She implored us to check out the cafe and the menu. We did, and had both an enjoyable lunch and experience.
A longer walk was in order, and we visited a travel agency to schedule our trip to Iguazu. Sandrita had read about a particular restaurant, El Mirasol, and we found it after considerable exploring. We crossed Nueve de Julio, the widest (claimed to be) street in the world, and marveled at the ubiquitous artworks - modern and ancient.
Argentines take great pride in their sophisticated architecture which clearly includes rich European character, but is in a class of its own.
One could conceivably spend the days just investigating and photographing the art and sculptures. There is no end to it all.
The photo on the left was used to make the background image of this page.
Argentina is famous for its beef, one main reason being the diet of pampas grass, but ham is also a major staple in the diet. Many varieties of cured hams can be seen on the counter in this deli in Recoleta (left). Tostados (toasted ham and cheese) are common fare found everywhere, and eaten by all for midmeal snacks and almuerza (lunch) which may occur even very late in the afternoon, since dinner is typically not served up until 8:30 pm. That took us a bit to adjust to. Our appetites were on their regular stateside schedule, so we felt the pangs earlier in the evening, but after going several times to restaurants to learn that they would not even open the doors until 8:30, we ultimately acquiesced, and altered our habits.
After the first couple days in BA Osvaldo took us to Jorge Newberry Airport, the other major airport where most non-international flights originate, for our departure to San Carlos de Bariloche.
Looking out the plane window (left) over the city the Rio de la Plata is seen in the background. The Rio Plata is a huge, muddy river that starts where the Parana and Uruguay Rivers merge. It is almost 50 kilometers wide at that point, and just gets wider reaching a width of almost 140 kilometers where it meets the Atlantic Ocean.
One of the five major stadiums as seen from the air is shown on the left. I haven't made it to a soccer game there yet, but surely will next time.
With all the fine parillas, I had absolutely no inclination to eat fast food, but I wondered what it might be like if made from Argentine beef. It was pretty good Burger King fare, and obviously the Portenos have taken to it. I managed to snap off these two pictures before a security guard told me that photos were not permitted in there.
My Cheeseburger Combo Mediano cost 10 pesos - about $3.50.
On the other hand, one of the best meals I had was this steak I enjoyed at Cabana Las Lilas in Puerto Madero. I revisited Cabana Las Lilas a few more times in 2007. It is more touristy, and pricey by comparison, but I like almost everything else about it. Sit on the veranda in the back if you can; it overlooks the wide walkway that spans Puerto Madero. It is cool overlooking the waterway there. Inside is noisy when busy.
The taxi drivers are generally accommodating and affable as this gents smile reflects. Not many of them speak english, but will they try hard to get you where you're going quite affordably.
Seeking another parilla we ended up at the Posta Recoleta (left) where we were waited on French style - hand and foot by several individuals. The wonderful scents of meats cooking over charcoal fill the air, and these parillas are commonly displayed in the windows of the cafes and restaurants.
When the meal is served the meats are brought on a small grill (similar to a hibachi) with blazing hot coals, and placed next to the table. The camareros will serve you from that as you consume your dinner.
This fine "camarero" was anxious to please, and did so by posing after diligently serving up a fine meal. He was still there when I returned in 2007.
I arrived at Ezeiza International Airport in Buenos Aires on a hot, humid morning in the third week of March in 2006, after a ten hour flight from Miami. I waited for Sandrita & Erek as arranged and we met up with Osvaldo, our remise (hired driver), to be transported to the Loi Suites Arenales in Recoleta.
The only constant is
change
Heraclitus of Ephesus (c.535 BC - 475 BC)
change
Heraclitus of Ephesus (c.535 BC - 475 BC)
Osvaldo
Osvaldo's Card
drove us to most places one would ordinarily take a taxi, but Osvaldo had personality. He acted more like a tour guide and told us about the history of the city, their heritage, the "milongas" where the Tango is a practiced art and much more. When he recognized that I did not understand espanol, he asked if I could speak Italian, as he informed us that Italian is the "second" language in Buenos Aires, and he went on to tell us of his own Italian heritage. Osvaldo told us about the neighborhoods, museums, and soccer rivalries. There are five soccer stadiums in BA. Osvaldo also advised me not to wear my "good" watch while walking out into the neighborhoods, and while I was wary, I never did have any really bad experiences with the locals.
Osvaldo's Card
drove us to most places one would ordinarily take a taxi, but Osvaldo had personality. He acted more like a tour guide and told us about the history of the city, their heritage, the "milongas" where the Tango is a practiced art and much more. When he recognized that I did not understand espanol, he asked if I could speak Italian, as he informed us that Italian is the "second" language in Buenos Aires, and he went on to tell us of his own Italian heritage. Osvaldo told us about the neighborhoods, museums, and soccer rivalries. There are five soccer stadiums in BA. Osvaldo also advised me not to wear my "good" watch while walking out into the neighborhoods, and while I was wary, I never did have any really bad experiences with the locals.